Magnificent India
Just a few months ago I had the privilege of being able to explore some of southern India with a group of friends and had so many fantastic wildlife experiences. Anoop, Saffron, Francesca and myself hopped on a plane to Bangalore and then travelled to Mysuru, Karnataka, to stay with Anoop’s family. I had the best time here, making friends, sharing stories and eating my body weight in Priya’s delicious home cooking (I still dream about it). Everyone made me feel so welcome and we created so many wonderful memories together.
Mysuru itself is such a wonderful city, bustling with life and colour. The markets were overflowing with flowers, fruits and vegetables and stalls piled high with incense, perfumes and glittering trinkets. The palace was stunning, with artefacts and artwork adorning the walls, it was so interesting to see the history of the city and get a glimpse into the daily lives of the locals. Everyone was super friendly, all the food and drink I tried was so delicious and I really felt at ease here.
There was plenty of wildlife to see here too, even in the heart of the city! Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary is home to a wonderful array of species and the boat trip allowed us to get up close to Heron, Ibis, stork and kingfisher, as well as Marsh Crocodile, Flying Fox and so much more. Even outside of wildlife sanctuaries, nature is never far away. We spent one evening chasing a Wild Boar out of the apartment complex and another evening this lovely Spotted Owlet (below) flew down right by the house and enjoyed posing for my camera.
After exploring Mysuru, Anoop drove us to Kabini for an overnight stay and a couple of safaris. This is where we came across this huge male with crossed tusks (below). Despite his staggering size, he was so majestic and calm and walked right up to the car, seemingly intrigued by us. A few moments later, he crossed the road and disappeared into the undergrowth, continuing on his journey. This was by far my favourite wildlife experience to date! I just couldn’t comprehend his size and how gentle and wise he seemed. We also witnessed a fantastic Peacock courtship display, spotted some Giant Indian Squirrel and lost count of the number of Langur monkeys and elephant herds we spotted in the jungle. What a fantastic start to our trip!
Our next stop was Goa!
The highlight has to be Curlies, where we dined on a delicious array of seafood and drank far too much Port, the perfect combination! Despite not visiting during the height of the tourist season, there was still plenty to see, such as the 408 year old body of St. Francis Xavier which was on show at the Basilica of Bom Jesus. We also had a rather wet walk around Chapora Fort and a lovely stroll down Anjuna Beach. I’d love to return at a warmer time of year and experience some of the clubs and festivals.
After flying back to Bangalore, we went on a safari in Bandipur Tiger Reserve. Despite not catching a glimpse of a Tiger, we did spot (thanks to Anoop’s sharp eyes) a leopard basking in the sun, high up on a rock overlooking the jungle. It was a spectacular sight and one I will certainly never forget. We were fortunate enough to see a wide array of wildlife on each safari, even catching a glimpse of a Sloth Bear on one occasion, but even if we hadn’t seen anything at all, I would’ve been grateful just to explore the jungle. I loved tracking tiger prints in the sand, listening to stories from the rangers and even smelling the fresh kill of a leopard. My favourite were the morning safaris, when there was still a little of the nights chill in the air and we watched the sun rise through the trees whilst listening to peacock calls echo across the landscape. It truly felt like I was in a dream and the sense of peace and tranquillity here was extraordinary.
After our safari, we ventured up into the Western Ghats and spent some days in the Nilgiris, walking around coffee estates and exploring tea factories. It was so relaxing up in the hills, breathing in the fresh air and looking at the spectacular views. It was so different to the ‘image’ of India that is often depicted in travel shows and films, and it truly opened my eyes to the diverse landscapes and intricate ecosystems that this country has to offer. Whilst exploring the mountains we spotted (thanks to Saff’s keen eyes this time) a couple of endemic Nilgiri Langur Monkeys, feasting on fruits in the trees. Witnessing such a rare species in it’s natural habitat was so exciting and gave this wildlife nerd a real adrenaline rush!
Once we’d returned to Mysuru, we continued to explore the city and decided to extend our trip by a week so we could attend the Mysuru Dasara, a local 10-day festival honouring the victory of good over evil. We attended the Jamboo Savari, a parade of floats, musicians and dancers as well as the Dasara elephants. This year elephant Abhimanyu was carrying the Mysore Ambari/Howdah and it was such a breathtaking sight. The elephants and their adornments were wonderous and the perfomers were so talented it truly was a phenomenal experience.
Before heading home, we stopped to explore the Hoysaleswara Temple. A UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 12th century, this temple is covered in intricate carvings that are truly breath-taking. The artwork on the outer walls are separated into bands, which include marching elephants, mythical creatures, peacock, horsemen, Hindu texts and deities and much more. Inside the walls, ceilings and pillars are adorned with more carvings and house shrines to Hindu Gods. I felt so grateful to be able to see such a beautiful piece of history up close and I couldn’t believe how well preserved the site is.
Now I’d better start wrapping up this blog, but I really could go on forever about this incredible experience. I’m so grateful to Priya and Manuel for welcoming us into their lovely home and keeping us so well fed, and of course a huge thank you to the man himself, my dear friend Anoop, for inviting me and planning the whole trip. It felt like a real home away from home and I was so grateful to meet all these wonderful, interesting and creative people. I am hoping to return to Mysuru soon to reunite with my second family, finally photograph the elusive tiger and discover more of what this incredible country has to offer!
